Tours of Seoul

As a part of the Hi Seoul Spring Festival, tours of Seoul for foreigners were offered, for free, on three days. I was able to participate on both Wednesday and Thursday. While I had previously been to about half of the sights included, I enjoy seeing the same things again, and the guide was quite knowledgeable, adding to what I'd previously learned. The tours were well organized and extremely well staffed. While the tours themselves were excellent, the advertising and marketing of the program obviously needed help. On the first day the staff almost outnumbered the participants; the second day's tour had more participants, due, it appeared, to the inclusion of a group of Japanese tourists. But the numbers could and, given the quality and value of the tours, should have been much larger. Of course, being me, I provided a number of suggestions on the evaluation forms we were asked to fill out!

Wednesday began at Cheonggyecheon, the rehabilitated stream in the middle of the city which, of course, was decorated for Hi Seoul and its theme, Hot Pink.







From there we were driven past the presidential house, known as the Blue House for its blue tile roof (which actually looks more green), on the way to Gyeonghuigung, a palace I had never before visited. It is the palace most damaged by the Japanese during their occupation with little truly original remaining. The restoration/reconstruction was completed in 2002 when it was opened to the public. Like all Seoul's palaces, the buildings are all named, and all the names sound similar, if not identical, to the western ear, so I promptly forgot them. This is a picture of the entry to the king's audience area.

Because of the Festival there was entertainment going on at all the palaces. On the day we were here there were traditional Korean dancers and a wonderful taekwondo troupe. The taekwondo group did their martial arts beautifully choreographed to music. It was great!


















Wednesday's tour ended at Deoksugung, the palace just "around the corner" from my residence. We saw the changing of the guard, which I see several times a week, but this time I was located so that I could get a better view, and picture, of the shell instrument.


Inside Deoksugung the guide took us through this wonderful stone arch which, in all my visits to this palace, I had never before seen. Proves the value of guided tours, I guess.









There was entertainment at this palace as well. As the most modern palace, having been used up until 1910 when Japanese rule ended the Joseon Dynasty, it seemed appropriate that the music I heard was several acts of jazz. It was a most pleasant way to end the day.


Thursday's tour began with another drive by the president's "blue house" and then we went to Bukaksan, a not very high mountain (about 1,000 feet). It provides the scenic backdrop to Gyeongbok Palace and is the northernmost of the four major mountain guardians of Seoul. Because portions of the area are under police and military control (a North Korean commando unit made it to the foot of the mountain in 1968), it was closed to the public until 2007. Now, to get beyond a certain point, one must submit passport information and be issued a badge to be worn within the area. One begins the journey climbing up steps to reach this park signpost and then continues the journey with more steps! The views are nice; would be spectacular with less pollution!

I may have been at the back of the group, but I did make it without much trouble. Because one had to include one's age on the application form, the staff knew how old I was and were very solicitous toward me. That was both nice -- and aggravating.













The real benefit of this trek is seeing parts of the fortress wall (also visible at Naksan and Namsan) and one of the original four great gates of Seoul, the north gate, Sukjeongmun.

We were all grateful to reach the bus, its seats and air conditioning, after the trek back down. A brief drive (although no trip in Seoul traffic is fast) brought us to Changdeokgung. This palace was originally built as a royal villa, rather than a palace, but was converted to a palace when Gyeongbokgung was destroyed during the Japanese invasions. Many of the buildings here were used by the Japanese after Korea was annexed, and they, of course, remodeled to suit their needs. Controversy continues about whether the buildings should be restored to their original condition or whether at least some of the changes should be retained since they represent a part of the history of the country.

This is the entrance gate, seen looking back from the inside.


The guide, who was quite knowledgeable, gave us an overview of the history and the layout of the palace.









In the courtyard outside the audience hall officials would line up according to their rank, military to the right (of the king), civil servants to the left. I located myself at the mid-point of the civil servants, about the right place given my career path.




This audience hall represents the old and the new(er). The wooden floor and electric lights were added by the Japanese when they used this space as an entertainment hall. Should they stay or should they go? . . .

At this palace, too, there was entertainment as a part of Hi Seoul. There were several performances of formal court music and dance.







Changdeokgung is the largest palace since it has wonderful grounds, known as Huwon (the secret garden). It is a naturalistic garden, no formal beds of flowers, and quite restful. It's difficult to realize that urban Seoul is just a few hundred yards away. While we were enjoying this peaceful scene,


we heard singing. Nobleman of the Joseon era, having nothing to do except develop their skills at the arts, would enjoy using those skills, with or without an audience. Obviously this "nobleman" had an audience. It was amazing hearing a clear unaccompanied voice issuing forth in this wonderful garden area.



As we left Changdeokgung we saw this wonderful tree, a Chinese Juniper estimated to be 750 years old. It had a number of braces propping up heavy limbs that might otherwise break.

The bus returned us to Cheonggye Stream where I, having toured there on Wednesday, left the group. On Cheonggye Plaza there was a fundraising effort going on, asking people to leave coins to benefit the poor of the world through World Vision. There looked to be quite a few coins there already.

I walked back to City Hall/Seoul Plaza to see what was happening. The large pagoda decoration which had been there for the parade had disappeared soon after. Then this display took its place. And, as always, there was entertainment. A brass group played all around the area.