The End -- the final posting

I've been home now for a week and am returning easily to life in my 3rd floor walk-up. It's good to be amongst my things (although I do need to clean out and reduce their number) and to walk around the neighborhood which is incredibly green and pleasant. Skies here are amazingly blue.

While I miss the congregation at the Seoul Anglican Cathedral, it was really heart-warming to return to worshiping at St. John the Evangelist, my home parish. My first Sunday back was Pentecost so the Gospel was read in several languages. I did a portion in Korean.
I've returned to my "Forever Fit" aerobics class (for the over-50 folk) at the YWCA and the after-class coffee klatch on Tuesdays. At the first session I shared some goodies from Korea.

Katy's buddy Mignon came over for one of their usual Wednesday play dates. It was fun to see him again and watch the two of them chase each other around.
So I'm well settled back into my Minnesota life.

I had believed/hoped that with the perspective of a week away from Korea I would have some profound thoughts on the country and my experience living there. I don't. . . . I had a marvelous time and am very happy I had the opportunity for such a long stay but am not sure I could summarize or comment in any conclusive way.

It's been great fun sharing my Korea Adventure through this blog. Even though I'm sure the readership is small, it was fun feeling like a pundit for a while, laying out my thoughts and experiences for others to read, think about, and occasionally comment on. But the adventure is over, I'm home, and it's time for this blog to end. So this is the final post.

Issues to Ponder

Living in a foreign country with a different culture and language I was left with a number of unanswered questions -- small things I wondered about. Now that I'm home, they're still puzzling.

VENDORS--There are small businesses everywhere, many in movable or permanent carts, selling a variety of things (lots of food items). I am amazed that they all are able to earn a living and wonder if they do. In the immediate vicinity of my lodging, in the middle of an office building area, were these folk, among a number of others.

This fellow had a shoe repair and shoe sale (men's business shoes) operation -- in front of the office building housing the Korean equivalent of the Wall Street Journal.

With a less permanent structure, but set up at the same place every business day and some Saturdays, this man sold ties and plastic, slip-on, shoes. How much of a market could there be?

Around the corner, almost on a main street, was this food seller. I'm not sure what items he sold, but they required lots of eggs, as shown by the large supply sitting on the right-hand side of the cart. He was open six, sometimes seven, days a week.

And then there was the woman, probably in her 30's, who every morning stood halfway down the first flight of stairs to the subway with a tray of what looked to be homemade sandwiches. I saw her daily as I took the subway to class; finally on one of my last days of school I saw someone buying a sandwich. I assume she must have sold others, but that was the only purchase I saw made. Did she make them at home? work for a nearby sandwich shop?

LEFT/RIGHT -- Koreans drive on the right. Pedestrian crosswalks, when they were marked, indicate one should walk on the right. Going up and down subway stairs and walking from one line to the other, the predominant approach seemed to be keeping left. However, generally chaos and each person for him/herself was the rule. When trying to avoid someone in the U.S. people tend to move to the right; in the U.K. they tend to move to the left. In Korea there doesn't seem to be an accepted pattern. It was very frustrating, particularly because. . . .

PUBLIC MANNERS -- Seem to be missing in Korea. For a country whose culture and language are built on respect and politeness, where knowing one's place in the hierarchy is critical to behavior, there is no recognition of others in the public environment. In the U.S. and in European countries I have visited, accidentally running into someone, trodding on their feet, catching them with a back pack or umbrella would elicit "I'm sorry," "Pardon me," "Excuse me," etc., etc. Not so in Korea where there seems to be no recognition of, or language for, the casual encounter. Silently, determinedly, pushing ahead is the norm.

ELEVATOR BUTTONS -- In many Korean elevators one can "unpush" a button. Push a floor number, and the button lights up; push the same number a second time, and the light goes out and no stop is made. This is convenient when an incorrect button is accidentally pushed; an unnecessary stop can be prevented. This is inconvenient when someone else accidentally unpushes the button for the floor you want. I learned to pay close attention when others got into the elevator and began pushing buttons; several times I had to push the button for my floor again because someone had unpushed it. I have never seen this feature in elevators anywhere else. Wonder why. . . .

THE HOMELESS -- They seem to be largely tolerated, if ignored. A large number of homeless, primarily men, live in the vicinity of Seoul Station (the old building is closed and unused). No one, including the police who have a substation next door, seems to be very concerned. Yet the large encampment living in the pedestrian underpass near City Hall vanished almost overnight. Were they rousted or did they leave because the weather had warmed up and the outside was preferable?

POLICE PRESENCE -- I wonder what the ratio of police to residents is in Seoul. Any event seems to command a huge police presence, including a demonstration in my neighborhood which never seemed to exceed 10 demonstrators, all quite peaceful. There are the regular police, who wear gray uniforms, and the "storm troopers" (my term) who wear black and always seems to have riot equipment. These are the folk who are "policing" rather than being in the army for their required military service. Both are typically deployed in large numbers.

These police are sitting and waiting (they seem to spend a lot of time just waiting) across from Deoksugung where a memorial shrine for the former president had been set up. They are well equipped for long waits as there are always a cadre of police buses lining the streets. The buses are used for eating (food seems to be delivered), resting, and bathroom facilities.


SUBWAY PAPER COLLECTIONS -- And I never did figure out where the old folk who so diligently collected the used newspapers on the subway took them or how they received money for them. Indeed, I'm just guessing that they received money but can't figure out why else they would so single-mindedly pursue every last paper.

I'm not sure a return visit to Korea would actually result in the answers to any of these questions, but seeking knowledge would present an excuse to go back. . . .

Home Again

I LOVE business class. While a trip which takes 24 hours is miserable no matter what, having the space and amenities of business class certainly improves the traveling experience. One of the most important benefits of business is the additional luggage allowance -- three suitcases, for free, as well as a carry on! And I discovered that the checked luggage is labeled priority so is taken off the plane first. Too bad I'm not independently wealthy so will have to return to coach in the future. The importance of the luggage allowance is clearly shown in this picture taken at Inchon International Airport in Seoul.


Of course, one of the most important things about being home is my Katy girl. It's great to have her cute face and bubbly personality around once again.


I arrived at Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport at 6:10 p.m. on Wednesday, May 27, and arrived home about 45 minutes later. Lugging all that stuff up three flights of stairs wasn't fun, but Amelia, my pet/house sitter, did the lion's share of hauling. It's now Friday and unpacking isn't totally done although progress is being made.

I've been thinking back on the three months in Korea and trying to process the experience. That may cause me to post another blog entry or two. So, if you're interested, check back in a week or so for any concluding thoughts.

The Last Time. . . . (from the other side)

I'm going through many of the same feelings I had back in February -- in reverse. Once again over the last few days I've been thinking "This is the last time I'll be/do/see. . . ." In many ways my feelings are even more nostalgic since there's no definite timetable for a return to Korea, although I'm sure I'll be back.

For the last time -- I attended the Anglican Cathedral, went to my drumming class, hung laundry to dry in my shower, had a meal with InSook and InAe, prepared food in my "kitchen," walked by Deoksugung Palace, visited with HaeJung and MinJu, took the subway, walked through Lotte Mart, had an English lesson with Young Il, observed the street vendors in "my" neighborhood, heard Koreans arguing loudly, enjoyed the night view from my 25th floor room. The list goes on and on.

It's been very enjoyable being a bit more than a casual visitor -- although with blue eyes, brownish hair, fair skin and English speaking I will never be mistaken for a native. Yet today I was able to direct Korean-appearing but American tourists (who obviously picked me because I looked American) on how to get to the "Rodeo" area of Apkujong. I am familiar enough with certain areas almost to be considered an expert. A heady feeling!

Much of Monday and Tuesday was spent organizing and packing. I now have four pieces of luggage, one carry (wheel) on and three to check. (Thank goodness for Business Class!) It's going to be a challenge.

Monday evening Sherrie, from church, and I finally had our dinner together. We ate at a small Korean restaurant near her home and then visited her apartment, which is very nice. It has two small bedrooms as well as a main room with good kitchen area and costs about as much as my one room. But -- a 2-year lease is required!



Tuesday late morning I took the subway (my last ride!) to meet HaeJung. We had lunch and then went to MinJu's school for her open house. There are 31 students in her 3rd grade class, but the kids are quite well behaved making the numbers manageable. Although parents help with serving lunch and cleaning the school because of limited funds and staff, technologically the classroom seemed well equipped with a large screen attached to the teacher's computer. The teacher taught an art class which certainly engaged the children's interest.



MinJu is quite good at art. Her picture is between my shoulder and her right ear. And I had to compare her blue-footed booby picture with the embroidered blue-footed booby on my Galapagos shirt.










We all returned to my place. MinJu was hungry so we stopped in to Kraze Burger on the ground floor of my building for a snack. The manager of the restaurant, Kyoung Yong Kim, is a very pleasant young man who was always very gracious to me when I stopped in for a take-out burger. At my request he joined our picture.

HaeJung took care of notifying the rental agent that I would be leaving in the morning and made arrangements for me to leave the keys at the Ramada desk. Then we went to my room for a last visit. The two of them left a little after 5 p.m.








YoungIl arrived with kim bap for supper at 6:45. There were two varieties, both quite delicious. We enjoyed the kim bap while finishing the bottle of wine I had in the fridge!



So this was the last meeting/supper with YoungIl. While we were chatting, Fides stopped by to pick up the apartment and personal stuff I was not carrying back to Minnesota. She has some donation possibilities and provided pick-up service. -- Couldn't ask for anything more.

HaeJung and YoungIl had taken most of the supplies and food, and I threw out what was left. So the room is cleaned out and ready for my departure.


That brings me current in this, my last, message from Korea.

Suicide of a Former President

I had been thinking about writing on this topic, and then I got an e-mail from a friend (my one true fan) wondering about the Korean people's reaction. I had been hearing about former President Roh Moo-hyun in newspapers and on the TV news almost since my arrival in Korea since he and his family were under investigation for bribery occurring during his presidential term. (He was in office just prior to the current president.) From what I could understand, it appeared that he was definitely guilty (he pretty much admitted to it in a hearing) and there was the likelihood that his wife and other members of his family were also involved. Indictments were expected within a week or so.

Last Saturday at dawn he committed suicide by leaping from a cliff behind his house in his hometown. I don't know what reaction exactly I expected but have been somewhat surprised at the visible grief and loss apparently felt by citizens. As I saw it (with very minimal knowledge), the man was a crook. The fact that he committed suicide was sad, but he was taking the "easy" way out rather than accepting the consequences of his actions. This does not seem to be the prevailing emotion amongst Koreans.

First, on Saturday when I met InSook and InAe, they seemed somewhat upset and told me that they had just heard of Roh's suicide. We talked mostly about how sad it was that he took his own life and discussed a bit about his political role. Apparently he was a pro-democracy, human-rights espousing "people's" politician who had been quite popular. He was a liberal while the current government is conservative.

When I returned home on Sunday from the day at the mime festival, I couldn't understand the lines of people snaking through the subway station leading toward the Doeksugung Palace exit. It turned out there was a temporary memorial, one of many throughout the city, set up on the plaza in front of the palace. A large group of people was sitting in front of it while the line of people coming up from the subway station was being directed into the palace grounds where, I assumed, there was some sort of remembrance book or something for them to record their presence.

On Monday evening I was returning from a friend's house and was at Seoul Station. Coming down the steps I had to work my way among the hundreds of people sitting there watching a large screen set up (portable from a truck) apparently showing film clips of Roh. At street level there was an even more extensive memorial altar set up (than at Doeksugung) and a huge group of people moving in zig zagging lines toward a table where people were writing in books and behind which was large poster paper on which people were also writing.

In both places there was a HUGE police presence (the largest I've seen while in Korea), although in neither of these locations did it seem to be needed. The mourners were extremely orderly, waiting in lines patiently for a long time. It appeared that citizens (members of Roh's political party?), not police, were responsible for organizing and directing the crowds.

According to newspaper accounts there were similar remembrance altars set up in many locations in Seoul and throughout the country. In some areas, particularly in the south of the country which was Roh's political base, there was some violence as members of Roh's party blamed the current government for hounding him to his death. And in Seoul some government officials were refused access to one of the memorial altars.

Roh's death has stopped the bribery investigation so his suicide did save his family from possible prosecution, quite possibly the reason, along with personal shame, that he took his own life. Everyone seems to agree that it is appropriate not to continue the investigation because of the absence of the key suspect.

Just a few days ago there was a column in the English-language Korea Times in which the columnist discussed corruption in Korea, which seems to be endemic. Jon Huer (perhaps an adopted or second-generation American Korean) stated his thesis: "What the world calls corruption is in the very nature of Korea, in being Korean and in 'Korean-ness.' It is in the way Koreans think about, feel toward, speak to, do business with and interact with other Koreans." He points out that "bo-wa-juseyo," a frequently-used term literally meaning "look at me" has more of a conspiratorial "look out for me" subtext. Because Koreans are members of "the world's most exclusive, almost-impossible-to-join secret club called Korea," helping another Korean is simply assisting a brother and the right thing to do -- even if technically illegal.

If Huer is correct, that helps explain people's reactions to Roh's death. He was a popular member of the club, did much good, and was being prosecuted (and persecuted) for adhering to the Korean way of doing business and government. So people grieve the loss of this brother.

Nami Island and Chuncheon Mime Festival

On Sunday I collected my "pay" for editing the paper written by my travel agent. ("Wednesday and Thursday" post, about 15 postings back.) Fides (her "church" name) arranged for me to join her, her younger daughter, called Suzie, and Elodie, from France who's doing an internship at Fides' agency, on a day's excursion at no cost to me. It was fair pay for my editing help. We first took a train, leaving at 7:50 a.m. (!!), to Gapyeong where all of us on the tour got off in order to take a bus to our first destination, Nami Island.


Nami Island is a tourist destination with some pretty scenery and a wide range of activities to appeal to a variety of age groups. One could easily keep busy for a full day; we had 2 hours. We rode bicycles for half an hour, walked around some, and got a pretty good idea of the island.

There were several very nice avenues of trees.




I liked this group of statues, representing pungmulnori players. I, of course, picked the buk.
We all got back on the bus and took a relatively scenic drive along a river to Chuncheon, the location of the Mime Festival. We were there on the opening day so there were only a few performances since most of the afternoon was taken up with the opening ceremony.









But first there were activities, like making a fish hat; watching a performance which, it being opening day, highlighted water; and checking out the volunteers (the subject of the paper Fides wrote and I edited).












The opening ceremony represents the theme of fire versus water, in which water always wins. It was faintly reminiscent of the St. Paul Winter Carnival battle between King Boreas (ice/winter) and Vulcan (fire/spring). The volunteers played a big role, first handing out plastic raincoats to watchers, and then getting fully involved in the water play. One understands the appeal of volunteering to high school and college students since the event looked a bit like Ft. Lauderdale on spring break (minus the beer -- I think). Here are some pictures from the ceremony, depicting the battle -- and the wet victory.


In addition to the festival, Chuncheon is noted for a special Chuncheon chicken dish, cooked on a griddle pan in the middle of the table. It was quite delicious!

At 4:30 we got back on the bus for a quick ride to the Chuncheon train station and the trip back to Seoul, arriving about 8 p.m. It was a long, 13-hour, day but great fun.

Last Friday and Saturday (May 22 & 23)

My friend Young Il Kim took Friday afternoon off work so we could "play." We ate lunch at a wonderful place called "Mad for Garlic" that had a delicious pizza with both fried and roasted garlic. Since almost everything on the menu had garlic, the restaurant provided mouthwash in the rest room!


We then briefly visited Yeouiudo Park which was nearby. It's not a huge park, but was in my Parks of Seoul booklet so I'd wanted to visit. The park is a nice space in the midst of office buildings, although apparently there are apartment buildings nearby which provided some of the park users. There was an impressive statue of King Sejong, the one who created hangul, the Korean form of writing.Young Il suggested going to the National Museum of Korea, a relatively new building and location in Yongsan. It is an amazingly huge and impressive building with a wide-ranging collection of Korean artifacts. The museum was also hosting a special exhibit on Egypt which we didn't see but enjoyed the painting on the steps advertising the exhibit.

Having spent more time at the museum than originally planned, we rushed to the Fulbright Building for the Fulbright Forum lecture entitled "The Drumming of Dissent during South Korea's Democratization Movement" presented by Katherine Lee. Katherine is an American who worked for Kim Duk Soo's organization for four years and was responsible for recommending my Korean drumming group Shinparam be invited to the festival in Buyeo, Korea, in 2005 and worked closely with those of the group who came to the festival in 2008. I met her last week, and she mentioned the upcoming lecture which sounded interesting -- which it was.


Saturday morning I went to my last drumming class. I'll miss the final class and the performance which happens next week. Did a little shopping at the huge, and confusing, underground mall at the Express Bus Terminal and then met InSook and InAe for our last get-together. We ate at an Indian curry restaurant -- which was still quite Korean. Had coffee at a nearby coffee shop, something we do frequently when together. And then we separated -- until my next visit to Korea.