Jeju Island (제주도) -- Part 1

Flew to Jeju Island Monday afternoon. It's about an hour's flight from Seoul, leaving from Gimpo Airport. I was surprised that the only way to get to Gimpo is by taxi (expensive) or subway (cheap and pretty fast but not necessarily convenient). I had reservations to stay at a pension on the south coast. It was a pleasant place, but its primary benefit was an English-speaking owner. Mr. Jahn (전은대) was very helpful, providing taxi service several times and making tour arrangements on my behalf.

From my balcony at the Siena Pension I could see the sea. There was a good-sized bedroom and a nice kitchen area; the kitchen was furnished far better than my Seoul room, even after my purchases of survival equipment.











Mr. Jahn made arrangements for his neighbor, Mr. Na (나창욱) who has a large car, to serve as my guide, driving me to see the sights. He was very pleasant and accommodating. The only drawback is that he spoke NO English. But we managed. It was interesting being on the receiving end of the approach that if one only speaks clearly, distinctly, and repetitively, the listener will understand. I generally didn't. . . .

On Tuesday we drove up the east coast. starting at Oedolgae. Like so many of the sights we saw in Jeju, the primary point of fame of these locations seemed to be that one or another of Korea's TV Dramas was shot there. The Great Jang Geum (대장금), with which I was familiar because of the musical I attended after having read the summary of the TV drama, seemed to have used most of Jeju's beauty spots as backdrop since I kept finding references and pictures from the drama at various places. Here I am as me and trying to be Jang Geum (difficult, balancing on two precarious rocks and trying to get my body hidden by her far smaller profile while still keeping one's face forward).


































The Cheongiyeon Waterfalls were much smaller than the guide books show -- perhaps there's been a lack of rain lately. But the walk to the falls was pleasant with lilac smells coming from a tree with flowers a bit like those on lilac bushes.





































We briefly stopped by Soesokkak, "the place where deep water and unique rock formations blend harmoniously in a thick pine forest." At least there was no entrance fee to see this sight. Most of the locations charge from 2,000 to 3,000 won per person for entry.





I had wanted to visit the Seongeup Folk Village, expecting something like that outside Seoul with signs and demonstrations and performances. Instead this seemed mainly to be small restaurants surrounding some old-style buildings, at least some of which are currently occupied. There is no entry fee and apparently no set guides, although it may have been there were no English-speaking guides. A young woman sort of guided us around, showing us what she said was her grandfather's house (with modern appliances) and gave us glasses of the locally-produced citron tea, wanting to sell me some. Had she had a smaller size bottle, I might have purchased since the drink was quite tasty. Mr. Na demonstrated carrying a water bottle, a mulheobeok, which was vital to water-short Jeju as a means for women to carry water home. I posed with two Dolharubang, stone grandfather statues. While all have prominent eyes, a blunt nose, a tightly closed mouth, and a bulging belly, each village has its own individualized Dolharubang.

Moving back to the coast, we visited Seopjikoji which, unlike most other coastal areas, was formed by red volcanic ash scoria. For many visitors the geologic and scenic interest was far less than as the location of a 2003 soap opera All-in and the opportunity to visit, for a fee, the "All-in House." I didn't feel the need to see that. But I did walk all the way out to the tip of the point and all the way up to the top of the lighthouse.








Because this site was high and on the coast, it was a logical location for this Hyeopja Smoke Mound, one of 38 on Jeju used for warning of enemy invasions.





I've noticed two things common in Jeju. First, there are many very nice-looking horses grazing throughout the countryside, like this mare and her foal who was happily nursing when I first walked by.






Also, people seem to have a need to pile up stones in ways from plain to fancy. This was one of the most creative ones I've seen.




At Seopjikoji I dealt with a little "up." At Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak), it was a major "up." When I first viewed the pathway and the little white specks of people zig zagging their way up the peak, I considered skipping the view from the top. But, having paid my 2000 won and begun the journey, I made it to the top. I am not sure if one is supposed to view the sunrise from the base or from the peak. If the latter, it would require making that trek in the dark, not something I'd recommend! Note that the white specks against the black lava in the center and toward the top are people on the path. . . .



There were interesting rock formations and, it being Korea, always a rest stop selling water and food as one is making the upward climb. I desperately needed water by this point!


There were many educational displays along the way -- interesting and a great opportunity to rest while becoming more knowledgeable.

The view looking down into the crater and a picture of me at the top!

Although I was exhausted after getting back down to the car (in some ways down was more difficult than up), I asked if we could stop at the Jeju Folk Village Museum since it was on the way back to my lodgings. We arrived there at 4:30 p.m., only an hour and a half before closing. This was a more traditional folk village, as I understand the concept. Largely a recreation intended to show the variety of housing styles throughout the island. It is quite large and organized into villages -- farming, fishing, etc. Because we were so late, there wasn't any entertainment going on, and there weren't very many people around. We had to rush through a bit, but I did get a flavor of the housing and life styles.

Apparently Jeju created a unique toilet facility where the hole on which one sat to relieve oneself was situated so that the human droppings fell into the pig's pen and provided a source for the animal's sustenance. Not pleasant, but quite practical. A picture of the toilet/pig pen combination -- the thatch covers the pig's sleeping quarters and the stonework at the right is part of the toilet.




Roofs were generally thatched and roped to hold together. This style was used for most buildings.







There was an interesting structure where one pole provided the singular support.

Although I had vowed to buy nothing more that needed to be packed, this artist had some wonderful carvings. I purchased the smallest he had which was very primitive, in comparison with others he had done. But it's a Dolharubang, which will make a nice souvenir of Jeju, and it is very small and lightweight.


With the sun, the heat, the walking, and the climbing, I was totally exhausted and glad to be back in my room a little after 6:30 p.m. Needed to rest up for another day's touring on Wednesday.